
Feeding your lawn
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Fertilise in early summer to strengthen the grass so it can withstand the hotter and drier conditions that summer brings.
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For the best results, use an organic fertiliser as it will support lawn health for a longer period.
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Use a sprinkler or watering can with rose head attachment after application to help encourage the nourishment to travel all the way down to the roots.
Dealing with weeds
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Before applying fertiliser, always check your lawn for weeds so it doesn’t encourage them to spread.
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Use an eco-friendly weed killer or remove weeds by hand. A daisy grubber is particularly useful for extracting weeds. The metal 'v' shape helps to ensure that weeds are lifted with their taproots intact.
Filling bare patches
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If you find yourself with bare patches, it’s easy to fill them using a fork and some grass seed.
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Cultivate the soil by pricking the surface with a hand fork. This allows air, water and nutrients to penetrate so new roots are able to take hold.
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Add a handful of soil-based potting compost and work it into the prepared soil.
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Sprinkle a seed mix containing dwarf rye grasses to lightly cover the surface
and use the fork to work it in.
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Pat the area down and water using a rose head attachment for a gentle and even water distribution.
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Cover with wire netting to protect the seeds from birds as they take root.
Advice on watering
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Try collecting rainwater in butts – it’s environmentally friendly and ensures you can hydrate your lawn if there is a hosepipe ban. Rainwater also often has a lower pH level, which is better for plants.
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Always water in the morning so the grass has time to absorb the moisture before it evaporates in the midday sun.
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Avoid watering at night as this can lead to fungus growing when the grass is damp.
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Don’t panic if your grass turns brown. Rehydrate it and the colour will return.
Mowing tips
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It's best to raise your cutting height and mow once a week during the summer.
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Regular trimming means that grass redirects its energy from growing taller into generating new shoots, resulting in thicker grass.
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Cutting just the top 1/3 of the blades ensures that the grass maintains enough surface area for photosynthesis.